OK here is an update (AT LAST ;D ;D ;D ;D) but just for a quick reminder, here are a few pics from when I picked up the POP in late October 2010 from London Docklands from some chap who had bought it to renovate !!. ;D
A few pics of the following two weeks strip down to see what we got which turned out to be OK.
not sure if these are wide enough may get an inch added just to be sure they fill the arch.
classic view
next start with body panels and some small bits of chassis etc
running gear all out in one lump
next was the doors
then cut away the sandwich plates as they tend to make a mess when fitted the doors back on to a painted body.
I was keen on making the body removable so set about welding plates to the bottom of the A and B posts so that I could bolt on the body at these points. First I had to repair the bottom of all four posts as they where all a little thin.
image of welded to chassis door post
and the now bolted on, which needs to be cleaned up once the body is of
Got a little bored with the welding so decided to look at what to do with the roof , first removed some of the channel but made sure to keep enough so it was still ridged and could still fit the ash wood roof lining cross members.
A trip to the local scrappy found me Mr Beans mini roof panel,
I know it is a pretty common POP in fill panel, but it still took a bit of steady cutting and measuring and cutting and measuring until it followed the pop original roof lines. I am not going to weld it in yet as the extra light thought he roof is very helpfully.
Getting bored I decided to order some rear wings 4” oversize couldn’t help myself when they arrived had to do a mock fit to get some inspiration like a big kid at xmas...
560hp LS3 with Edelbrock supercharger. OMEX management. 3 inter coolers and gives 30+on a run
I had already planned to use the chassis from one of these for the POP as they are 90" wheel base. I know the pop needs to be 91" but that was not an issue just a case of adding a bit of 1" box in jig so to stretch wheel base. The Pop is however some 8" narrower than a Cobra mmmmmm it will work in sure.
Jig was all ready for my attempt, I only had a few hours as they needed the jig for another Cobra so did not have chance to play with camera, anyway here is the basic finished main chassis with kickup and front cross memberer. Top front rail will be removed once I stiffen the bottom one.
diff position clarification
main chassis rails
front clip having had 4" removed (it looks twisted in image that is because the lower cross memberer is only tacked in place at the moment for positioning).
Next was to start on the suspension, the rear is XJ6 and needed to be narrowed some 7" each side to give me a rear axle of 47" hub to hub. Front uprights are XJ40 which has bespoke wish bones as used on the Cobra. Wish bones to be left the original length so as not to upset the excellent geometry set up that is on the Cobra, Instead I removed 4" out of the cross members
XJ40 front upright
Front wishbones
bottom
and top
7inch removed from rear drive shaft
modified steering arm now off the front of the upright instead of the rear.
and back together
Uploaded with
ImageShack.us7"removed from bottom rear wishbone and shock mount mover out to give the same 3 to 1 ration on shock load as standard setup and also locate the shock so that it works.
Front wishbones
top
bottom
and fitted
and rear back on with 2.8.LSDsd diff
and all
next was to look at steering and to ensure I was able to dial out any bump steer. A chevette rack was sourceded from a good friend of mine Mike of regal engineering at Leicester, they will build/modify you any rack power or manual.
First job is to set up with some DYI brackets
then add pointers and move suspension over full travel and adjust rack inner and outer ball joint to dial out any steering movement or as much as possible. The longer the wishbones the better/easier it is to dial out bump steer.
and in this case it was calculate that 90mm is to removed from outer body and 60mm from inner, I can explainin if interesteded another time, but the long and short is that you should not induce and steering angle chang during suspension travel = bump steer.
MORE TO COME VERY SOON
Well next big thing is to get the body and pop chassis joined up to the new rails,,,,, ;D ;D
ooo and I picked up some cheap used rims with all but new tires wich will do me for now....
First I set the new chassis up on some steel rails so it sat at ride hight and level so that when I placed the pop on top I could see ride hight etc in relation to the wings.
first offer up shows that the old pop leaf spring crossmember had to be removed.
and try again
now it sits down better
and from a side view I am realy pleased with stance in fact it did gave me a bit of a buzz
rest of the old tunnel had to come out but
one of the old pop crossmembers fitted up perfect so it seem a shame not to use it
. The rest of the pop chassis will be shot blasted and boxed at a later date before painting mmmmmmwhat colour??..
I will be welding in a 1.5mm steel floor once I have engine and box all lined up.
don’t know abt you lot but I seem to spend 1 hour looking and then another working and then another planning and then looking and then working again so much to think about and to cock up…..
and a little more
I had to add a little kick up over the rear hubs so as to get full travel wich is 2" up and 2" down
I used 50 x 50 box, will finish of welding and cleaning once the body is off. You can also see here I added a prop loop wich is also where I weld some further stiffners to the rear chassis section.
prop Loop
I also had a play with a bit of origional rear floor pannel wich will need a little mod but will be fine.
so far pretty happy
actually very happy
brum brum